But if you can, post the diagnostic codes and you’ll get some actual ideas, not just guesses. If it isn’t that, my next guess would be the crank position sensor or a failing ignition module (both spark problems). 2013 Ford Escape Review Original MSRP22,470 - 32,120 Price Range7,997 - 14,000 Average Selling Price11,030 Fuel Economy (MPG)22/31 City/Hwy Body. That part I mentioned above, when it fails I think it causes a mixture problem. Usally that is a spark, fuel, or mixture problem. That means the cylinders are not firing consistently, and gasoline is just going in one side and being blown out the tailpipe much of the time. To troubleshoot, do the following: Get under the hood, and look for the shifter cable while somebody moves the shifter from reverse to L (engine off) to see if the line moves the lever on the transmission. Best alternatives: Acura CSX, EL, or Integra Ford Fusion or Mercury Milan post2006 Honda Civic Hyundai Elantra wagon, Sonata. If you’d like me to offer a guess based on what you say, it seems like the engine is missing in a major way.
#2013 ford escape problems software#
You paid for the diagnostic software when you bought the car, so you might as well take advantage and use it.
Without the codes its just a guessing game. If you post all the codes stored, folks here could come up w/some ideas what might actually be causing it.
#2013 ford escape problems code#
If the CEL (or engine fault) light comes on, that means a diagnostic code set has been stored. Used to work ok on older cars, but with modern cars you can quickly run out of money before running out of guesses. Or if they have it, it isn’t a common failure items in other cars.īTW, replacing parts to fix problems isn’t a very effective solution on modern cars. It’s a part unique to Ford, other cars don’t seem to have it. If your Escape has that part, that’s something to suspect anyway. Somebody here probably remembers the actual name of that part. DPE something-something were the initials I think. There used to be a part unique to Fords that would fail & cause this problem Part named something like " differential vacuum modulator" or the like. Shocks, rear sway bars, brakes, and front axle seal replacement.Sorry you are having this frustration Linda. Needed to have front passenger side control arm replaced. Rattle/clunk in rear, dealer replaced rear shock assemblies per TSB 13-07-02. Ford is aware of it and has no solution to date Had a misfire problem when I bought it but replaced spark plugs and coils. Wheel bearing, hub, and front axle replaced due to bad wheel bearing. Ford Escape (Midsize / Medium SUV): 3.9 out of 5 stars from 54 genuine reviews. Loud noise traced to faulty front wheel bearing. Tires that were worn unevenly by worn old struts not replaced, so they still make a subtle sound at low speeds. Over time, vacuum hoses can dry out and crack, especially if. Lower ball joint was bad causing a rattle and clunk going over bumps.Īlso replaced rear upper control arms with adjustable type due to uneven rear tire wear. If you notice that your RPM is high in idle or randomly surges, a vacuum leak could be the cause. Replaced front struts and lower control arms. Rear wheel bearing made noise at high speed. Took several visits and several other parts replaced before problem solved. When I jacked the car under the floor on one side it would clunk and when I let the jack down it clunked again, seemed like a body or subframe twisting and popping. No improvement in the condition after these repairs.
The front strut bearings were replaced, also the stabiliser bar support busings were replaced. but could not tell if the top strut bearing is the source.Ī clunk from the front suspesion/steering when turning a low speeds and going ove bumps. The test drive diagnosed the front struts are the cause of the clunk. There is a clunk from the front suspension when turning at low speed when either front wheel moves up or down. I replaced both Front and Rear stabilizer bar links. There is a distinctive clunk from the rear suspension when driving in parking lots and changing direction the suspension is working, thus is on turns and uneven surfaces.Original Rear shocks were replaced with KYB 553392. There was a clunk when a wheel ran over a pot hole or off a low curb etc.
The rack was not allowing the steering to naturally return to neutral.įront end creaking noise when braking, turning, and over bumps
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